3d printer magnetic build plate
Does somebody try something like that?
@bhudson, the adhesive aka product A is what the magnet "sticks" too. It has adhesive on the heated bed side, and a magnet attracting surface topside, and then you place the magnetic bed, part B to this, which is the build plate, so you can use it after all. 🙂
As to its effectiveness, who knows.
My friend has it for Anet A8. He is happy with it as Mike pointed it is made with two parts A and B. I know that aluminium is not magnetic 🙂 The point is the PEI sheet is pressed only on the corners as a result it might bend in the middle for instance. Magnetic bed plate is adhesive with all surface and it should not move as the PEI sheet might do. The bad thing, people claim that it loses magnetic properties above 80-90C. However, maybe I will give a try and let you know. Thank anyway for feedback.
If the PEI is properly shaped it doesn't bend in the middle unless you are using nylon, which will pull the sides up as it warps. I prefer the clip method as I can change the PEI for a steel sheet if I choose. I have several steel sheets that I use for ABS and PMMA with a special print surface, but then go back to the PEI for PETG, PLA, and small nylon parts, or anything that is carbon filled.
The PEI sheet does move and distort, and you don't always notice it, so I just remove it and print straight onto the bed. I use DimaFix with warp prone plastics and it works very well. Despite what others say, this does makes a difference to the print quality, and although PEI sheet is useful for removing parts, the indeterminate location & fixing detail of the CEL build plate is a slight niggle, and a compromise. I tried various ways to improve on the location of the CEL PEI sheet, and it just wasn't worth it, as higher bed temperatures caused bulging, but in fairness the LokBuild surface worked very well for a while (until poor macros killed it), and I've seen a bespoke magnetic build plate using PEI is the next best thing. I also have laser cut steel sheets, aqua & sand blasted, as well as glass, that all work too.
As my DimaFix workaround is so good, I haven't bothered to do or develop anything else, but FWIW aqua blast glass and DimaFix for ABS gives a very nice finish.
Thank you for your detailed answer. I tried the LokBuild surface but it does not work so well for me. After some prints it was already damaged. Honestly, I was not thinking to print directly on the bed. I will give it a try anyway. I was thinking about this magnetic plate as it is quite easy and cheap solution to try. I will order one from amazon and I will try it. Thank again.
On my Wanhao I use a magnetic spring steel flex plate system with a PEI sheet on top. Works perfectly on that machine. The magnetic adhesive base is only good for ~85°C, but since I switched to Titan-X that hasn't been a problem.
The wham-bam PEX steel magnetic surface looks like it would be a great option for the Robox if they made it in the correct size(or you have access to a guillotine to trim a larger sheet down. This apparently is good to 130°c.
ok, I bought it to give a try. I bought one magnetic kit plus a Flex Steel. Please look at the pictures. It was easy to trim magnetic parts A and B only with a knife. The magnetic part has a 3M sticker and I glued it directly to the ROBOX so far it keeps good. I tried ABS (TitanX) at 85C it does not move at all. It keeps flat. However, I did only 3 tries. The filament stick very well to the magnetic plates. My opinion much better than to the PEI sheet. I did not tried yet metallic steel plate. I need to trim it. If you have any questions or ideas to try it, let me know.
Have a look at the kit I do for the Robox on the Unoffical Robox Facebook Forum.. getting good reviews 🙂
Uses Ultem PEI, steel plates, ultra strong magnets (very high temp) zero flex our bouce - job done,